Tool Drop: the sanding setup I actually use

This one's basics, but I learned a chunk of it the hard way, so it's worth saying out loud: sanding matters more than almost anything else in a restoration, and most of it comes down to grit. Grit: I stay in the 120–320 range. Day to day it's 120–180 to strip back old varnish and get rid of the bulk, then a pass at 220 to take the last bit of colour off and leave it smooth. I rarely go below 120 — anything coarser (80 and under) tears the timber up and the scratches are a nightmare to get out, especially on a cheaper sander. Paper: Go Velcro-backed, not the plain strips you have to clip in — check the box for the Velcro icon before you buy. I buy mine in bulk online rather than in packs of five from the hardware store; works out a fraction of the price once you're going through a few pieces a week. Sanders: Two tools cover 90% of what I do — a Black & Decker orbital sander (about $47 NZD) for the bulk of the work, and a little detail “mouse” sander (~$46) for corners and tight spots. Both run off a shop vac now instead of the little dust bag — cleaner, healthier, and worth the ~$150 setup if you're doing this regularly. I'd steer clear of a belt sander until you know what you're doing — wrong grit and it'll tear a piece apart fast. Mask: Non-negotiable. Old varnish and sandpaper dust both carry silica and who-knows-what from old finishes. Mine was $20 — you don't need to spend big, just don't skip it. High gloss pieces are a different conversation entirely — strip first, then sand underneath. I avoid gloss altogether, which is why you won't see it in store. Questions on any of this, drop them below — and if there's appetite, I'll follow up with a proper technique video on using these tools.

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